Got the Holeshot/Berkey oil mod from the UPS dude today. So, who cares to guess the minimum amount of time the kit sits in the box before it gets installed? Those of you who measured your answer in days can now go to the back. Those who measured in hours are much closer. I actually had to do some productive work and then get me lardy arse out the door to run some surgery/laziness/Double Whopper w/cheese off, so I didn’t start until 8 p. m.

2.5 hours later, I was done. Well, not all the way done. The radiator is still empty, but I figure since it’s drained, might as well swing by NAPA tomorrow and get Mr. FS130 and put it in.

The following instructions and descriptions are meant to convey the method that a professional mechanic may use to install the Holeshot Performance oil modification. This is in no way meant to be an instruction for non-professional mechanics, but merely a description of how the professional may do the installation. If you are not a professional, do not attempt this procedure. If you are prone to dumbass attacks, don’t even think about ordering the kit described. If you are a lawyer, may the flames of Hell be turned up just a tad upon your inevitable arrival.

Piece o’ cake, professional guys and gals. First, whip out the Visa and call the order taking dood at Holeshot.  If you get this totally rad biker and not Dale, you won’t have to go through the reported, “You’re a moron not worthy of a V4 if you don’t buy the X-1R formula” spiel. Be sure to mention the SabMag discount (assuming you qualify) and prepare for a $300 charge on the ol’ Visa/MC/Amex/Discover/ Novus/Bob’s Friendly Charge.

Wait three days. Should take no more than three days as you were smart enough to say, “Hmmmm, three day orange label UPS is only three dollars more. Why wait?”

Get box. Get giddy at the prospect of getting stuck in traffic without thinking, “Feckin’ traffic, me cams are being chewed to pieces.” Rip open box with glee. Stare in amazement that everything you need to do this job is included in the box, right down to a nice bracket to keep the oil lines away from the frame.

Get a six-pack of your favorite beer. If you don’t drink when you wrench, don’t say I didn’t warn you. (Certain AA graduates excluded.)

Get out the following:

·        10mm box end and offset wrenches

·        12mm box end

·        Two (2) 15mm box end wrenches,

·        or one (1) 15mm box end and a big Crescent 17mm box end 8 mm socket or 8 mm box end (socket preferred) Tubing cutter or diagonal cutters (wire cutters)

·        Teflon tape

·        Loctite, if you’re so inclined

·        32mm socket with appropriate ½” ratchet

·        or one big arsed set of Visegrips

Unmount the radiator. No need to undo the top mounting bolt, just do the bottom two that allow the rad to swing away from the head.

Now, it is possible to do this without removing anything but the original oil lines and the oil filter. The keyword is “possible”. One must use 2 10mm wrenches, both with teeth slightly offset from the other. This is so that you can alternate wrenches as you turn the front cylinder bolt one 16th of a turn at a time. This would take for ‘kin ever, so I would not recommend it.  For the record, it is possible to do this without removing anything but the old lines and the oil filter, but it is not recommended. In fact, had I to do it again, I’d just take the whole radiator off, as even swinging it away from the head made it a bit of a pain to do the job.

Rip out the old oil lines. This has been rehashed in various web sources, so no need to repeat it here.  I cut the shite out of mine, to the point that they’re nearly unrecoverable. You might want to keep the old lines in case you want to go back to the old cam-chewing system that gives piss poor oil pressure at the top end, so you might want to use a method different from mine so that the lines are reusable. See enclosed instructions.

Put the adapter thingy on. Be sure to use Teflon tape on the thing that the oil filter screws onto.  Put Teflon tape on the fittings going into the adapter thingy, too. You want leaks? Fine, forget the Teflon tape. Fook the Loctite, too.

Run the lines. Pics in the instructions.

Bolt ‘em down. Bit of a pain, but no worse than, say, putting carbs back in. Run lines to adapter thingy. Teflon tape, please. Bolt ‘em down.  Need a 15mm (or Crescent™) wrench to hold one part of the line so the line doesn’t turn.  (It’s evident when you’re doing it.) Crimp it all down, check that you didn’t forget something and install the oil filter. Put ½ quart of your usual oil in, since you lost the oil in the filter and fire that baby up. check for leaks. There aren’t any leaks because you used Teflon tape. Shut it down, because you’ve not put antifreeze in the rad yet.

Two notes. First, if you can adjust your valves, you can do this job in your sleep. Second, not all V4s need to use the Goldwing filter. My 700 Sabre, in previous tests, appears to need the GW filter. My father’s V45 Magna (my original, very first street bike) needs to use the GW filter as well.  My V65 Magna, however, doesn’t need the GW filter as the Fram 6010A filter fits just fine. This is surely because I spent US$11 on the 6017A filter assuming that it needed it. So, if you have an ‘85 V65 Magna, rest assured that you don’t need the GW filter. Big Sabres? Beats me.

Third, (yeah, I lied about the “two notes” part), take the radiator off. It probably wouldn’t hurt to take the tank off, too. Not necessary, as I did it without, but sure would make it easier.

Overall? US bucks well spent. yeah, the “drill the main oil gallery” method is cheaper, but my time is worth something and I whipped this out in 2.5 hours/4.75 beers and I didn’t have to run all over town getting parts. As always, YMMV.

Questions? You know where I live.

Mike Stewart ( COP#0008 DOD#1734 ‘84 VF700 Sabre ‘85 V65 Magna ‘83 Yamaha Seca (hers)

Sabre/Magna FAQ:

You’re never lost as long as you have fuel.